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Foodnotes (About Us)
By Lynn Hazlewood


     The Cornwall Bank, situated on River Avenue in Orange County’s Cornwall-on-Hudson, was short-lived; it opened in 1897 and closed again six years later after a spot of embezzling caused a ruckus. But the building endures, and after serving as a village hall and then legal offices it was transformed into a restaurant: The River Bank – a name that reflects its address and original purpose rather than its proximity to the river. “We overlook Storm King Mountain,” says chef and co-owner Lucie Provencher, noting that they are near the river. “You can’t see it because there are tree, but if you walk about 200 yards, you’ll fall into the Hudson,” she says. (We advise walking only 195 yards.)
To create the new eatery, Provencher teamed up with building’s owner, Anthony Missere, a silent partner, although “he likes to come and mingle, and makes a great host,” Provencher reports. The bank vault is now used to store wine, while the color scheme pays tribute to the structure’s original use. “It’s done with the color of money,” Provencher announces with insouciance (she’s French-Canadian). “The walls are dollar-bill green, with copper trim. There’s mahogany paneling, a copper bar, and wine racks from the floor to the ceilings – the ceilings are 18 feet high. The light fixtures are turn-of-the-century. It’s a little bit vintage, a little bit whimsical. When you leave, we have an antique cash register, and if you press the ‘no-sale’, the drawer opens and it’s full of chocolate money. And the sign for the restaurant resembles a penny.”

 

 

    
     Despite all the money talk, prices for the contemporary American food are moderate, with entrées ranging from $15 to $23, and pizzas for $8 and $12. Wines are reasonable too, running between $20 and $33. The menu has those ubiquitous Asian, French and Italian touches. Provencher reels off a few entries: “Sushi rolls, steamed clams, smoked chicken crêpes with Gruyère topping, ravioli with roasted garlic and shitake mushrooms, calamari with Oriental dipping sauce, plate-sized thin crust pizzas – anything from plain mozzarella to grilled shrimp, olive, pesto, and smoked bacon. And we have vegetarian versions with portobello mushrooms and goat cheese. For entrées,” Provencher goes on, ”you can find a lot of signature dishes like yellowfin tuna niçoise, roasted duck with raspberry glaze, and crispy corn-fed chicken breasted with mango chipotle sauce.” Classic American desserts (like cheesecake and chocolate mousse) are homemade.
Provencher owned North Plank Tavern in Newburgh for 18 years, and sold it in the late `90s. “I went to work for corporate America,” she says. “I was in the food and wine business, selling wine in New York City.” Did she like it? “It was different,” she replies diplomatically. “I learned to write a lot of memos.” Now she’s back at the stove, have a good time again. “We’re in a great spot,” she says. “It’s casual, kid-friendly, busy. It’s a lot of fun.” River Bank is at 3 River Avenue. 845-5343046.

  
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