Foodnotes
(About Us)
By Lynn Hazlewood
The Cornwall Bank, situated on
River Avenue in Orange County’s Cornwall-on-Hudson, was
short-lived; it opened in 1897 and closed again six
years later after a spot of embezzling caused a ruckus.
But the building endures, and after serving as a village
hall and then legal offices it was transformed into a
restaurant: The River Bank – a name that reflects its
address and original purpose rather than its proximity
to the river. “We overlook Storm King Mountain,” says
chef and co-owner Lucie Provencher, noting that they are
near the river. “You can’t see it because there are
tree, but if you walk about 200 yards, you’ll fall into
the Hudson,” she says. (We advise walking only 195
yards.)
To create the new eatery, Provencher teamed up with
building’s owner, Anthony Missere, a silent partner,
although “he likes to come and mingle, and makes a great
host,” Provencher reports. The bank vault is now used to
store wine, while the color scheme pays tribute to the
structure’s original use. “It’s done with the color of
money,” Provencher announces with insouciance (she’s
French-Canadian). “The walls are dollar-bill green, with
copper trim. There’s mahogany paneling, a copper bar,
and wine racks from the floor to the ceilings – the
ceilings are 18 feet high. The light fixtures are
turn-of-the-century. It’s a little bit vintage, a little
bit whimsical. When you leave, we have an antique cash
register, and if you press the ‘no-sale’, the drawer
opens and it’s full of chocolate money. And the sign for
the restaurant resembles a penny.”
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Despite all the money talk, prices for the contemporary
American food are moderate, with entrées ranging from
$15 to $23, and pizzas for $8 and $12. Wines are
reasonable too, running between $20 and $33. The menu
has those ubiquitous Asian, French and Italian touches.
Provencher reels off a few entries: “Sushi rolls,
steamed clams, smoked chicken crêpes with Gruyère
topping, ravioli with roasted garlic and shitake
mushrooms, calamari with Oriental dipping sauce,
plate-sized thin crust pizzas – anything from plain
mozzarella to grilled shrimp, olive, pesto, and smoked
bacon. And we have vegetarian versions with portobello
mushrooms and goat cheese. For entrées,” Provencher goes
on, ”you can find a lot of signature dishes like
yellowfin tuna niçoise, roasted duck with raspberry
glaze, and crispy corn-fed chicken breasted with mango
chipotle sauce.” Classic American desserts (like
cheesecake and chocolate mousse) are homemade.
Provencher owned North Plank Tavern in Newburgh for 18 years,
and sold it in the late `90s. “I went to work for corporate
America,” she says. “I was in the food and wine business, selling
wine in New York City.” Did she like it? “It was different,”
she replies diplomatically. “I learned to write a lot of memos.”
Now she’s back at the stove, have a good time again. “We’re
in a great spot,” she says. “It’s casual, kid-friendly, busy.
It’s a lot of fun.” River Bank is at 3 River Avenue. 845-5343046. |